Geological Wonders - Jenolan Caves

Jenolan Caves is one of Australia’s oldest tourist attractions, and remains one of its most cherished. For many thousands of years the caves were certainly known to aboriginal people, including the Gundungarra. The caves reputedly became a haven to bushrangers early in the 1800s, and as early as the 1840s the caves were visited by tourists. In 1866 the caves were protected by the government.

From 1879 tourists arrived at Jenolan from Tarana railway station, before travelling to Jenolan by coach. In 1887, the Six Foot bridle track from Katoomba was opened. Tourists could then make the 45 kilometre journey to the caves on horseback.

Until as recently as 20 years ago, it was commonly believed that Jenolan Caves were only thousands of years old. Recent studies on volcanic ash in the caves have determined that they are probably over 340 million years old. This means that the caves are significantly older than any other open cave system in the world.

The caves were formed in limestone laid down 430 million years ago. Millions of sea organisms gathered on the floor of the ocean when they died. These organisms were gradually compressed into rock. At this time, Jenolan was located in warm shallow seas, in conditions similar to the Great Barrier Reef.

Limestone is made up primarily of a mineral called calcite, which dissolves easily in rainwater that has become slightly acidic as it passes through decaying vegetation and soil. Over millions of years, rain and river water dissolved the limestone, carving out caves. Recently we have also learned how thermal water has seeped up from beneath the earth’s surface and carved enormous dome shaped caves.

The limestone caves have preserved fossils of ancient life. A survey of the caves revealed the fossilised jawbone an extinct species, dating back 20,000 to 40,000 years. The Diprotodon, a relative of the wombat, was the largest marsupial, ever to have existed.

There are 350 recorded entrances to the caves at Jenolan. It is believed that the Jenolan Caves complex is largely an interconnected system with different chambers, each one linked to another. However we do not yet know its exact configuration. Not all of the connections have been located, and caves and passageways continue to be discovered.

Two river systems pass through the caves, which divide into the northern and southern sections at the Grand Arch. The Jenolan River flows through the northern section and Camp Creek through the southern. The rivers join at the head of the Blue Lake. The Blue Lake’s brilliant colour results from dissolved limestone and clay particles. Great care is taken to protect the purity of these two feeding river systems, as Jenolan Caves is particularly sensitive to pollution. On leaving the caves these waters go on to join the Coxs River system, which is part of the Sydney water catchment.

The chemistry and biology of the caves are closely linked. This is because the caves are what is known as a low energy environment. This means it has an ecosystem which is virtually independent of sunlight. Micro-organisms develop using the energy of bacteria, crystal and water.

This underground environment supports extensive life systems, including 17 species of bat. You can also find 150 invertebrate species, 40% of which are endemic to Jenolan. Creatures such as white albino crickets appear weird and wonderful, but are perfectly equipped for their underworld environment. Spiders have adapted to live without light and instead navigate their way using smell, touch and sound. One of the fiercest looking creatures is the pseudo scorpion, which looks like a cross between a scorpion and a spider with large antlers. Endemic shrimps also live within the underworld’s waters.

There is also a great variety of wildlife around the caves. Endangered brush-tailed rock wallabies inhabit the nooks and crannies of the caves. The Blue Lake is home to a community of platypus.

There are 4kms of formed pathways through the caves and you can join one of more than ten tours which take visitors through different parts of the system. Each cave has its own unique character.

The Lucas Cave is the most popular cave at Jenolan. It contains the largest and tallest chambers, and the most photographed feature, the Broken Column.

The Chifley Cave has a magical array of formations and chambers that show great variety. Historic and coloured lighting enhance some of Jenolan’s best decorated areas of active crystal. It is an excellent tour for children.

The Imperial Cave is the easiest of the show caves to experience as it follows the mostly level path of an ancient river passage. The cave houses wondrous formations and ancient fossils. A visit includes the opportunity to visit the underground river.

The Orient Cave is visually stunning. It dazzles the senses with its rich colours and with the grand scale of its crystal formations.

The Temple of Baal features the huge and delicate Angel’s Wing, and stunningly mysterious helectites. A new high tech sound and lighting system enhances the magic of this magnificent cave.

The Imperial - Diamond Cave tour allows you see the entire Imperial Cave then be delighted by the diamond extension, a wonderland of pure white crystal tinted with shades of pink and apricot. Helectites, fragile straws and the ‘Gem of the West’ are features that will forever be etched in your memory.

The River Cave features the still pools of the underground River Styx, including the ‘Pool of Reflections’ .You will also find some of Jenolan’s largest crystal formations. The tour is something of an adventure, often likened to an underground bushwalk.

The Pool of Cerberus and Ribbon Cave both feature richly decorated crystal. They can only be visited by small groups due to their delicate nature. The fragile crystals form alongside big blue pools.

Jubilee Cave has beautiful white transparent crystal which you experience up close, as you explore the small and secretive passages described by early explores as the most beautiful at Jenolan.

The “Mysteries, Legends & Ghosts” tour reveals unusual occurrences and mysterious phenomena that have been observed at Jenolan over the past 160 years.

Every ‘Jenolan Pass’ includes the opportunity to take in the wonders of the Devils Coach House and Nettle Cave, with an easy to use Acoustiguide audio guide which provides a fascinating commentary.

All the tours allow you to access the caves with minimum impact on their fragile environment.

When you walk through the caves you will see familiar cathedral like formations of pairs of stalactites and stalagmites. Dripping water shapes the hanging stalactites, and lands on the floor to build up a corresponding stalagmite. Many people play games using their imagination looking for familiar shapes in the rock formations.

The more adventurous can climb, crawl and squeeze their way through to less frequently visited parts of the cave system. Jenolan offers a daily adventure caving tour. The Plughole provides an exhilarating experience as you follow your experienced guide through ancient passageways. Lights, overalls and safely equipment are supplied.

Life in the Jenolan Underworld

Mice feed on vegetation on the caves edge, attracting carnivorous owls and falcons. Bats enter and exit the caves to consume slow flying insects.

Bat, mouse and bird droppings become food for the Cave Dung Beetle and millipedes. Meanwhile, Cave Crickets scavenge dead animals such as these birds, bats and mice, while spiders prey on the beetles and millipedes.

Bat droppings also enter the pools introducing bacteria, which become food for mirco-organisms such as flatworms and isopods. These mirco-organisms in turn become food for other invertebrates, such as blind cave shrimps.

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Country roads are often narrow and winding.
Bends and curves are often dangerous due to a build up loose dirt and stones.
Be prepared for changing road conditions and surfaces in wet weather.
Always drive to the conditions, which is not necessarily the posted speed limit.

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