
The Tablelands region is home to many geological wonders. Around 450 million years ago life from an ancient coral reef fell to the ocean floor. This began a process of creation that lasted hundreds of millions years. The results of this process are features such as the awe inspiring Jenolan Caves.
During this period a variety of factors have had a hand in creating a trail of geological marvels throughout the Tablelands region. These include uplifts of earth, river and marine deposits, volcanic activity, ancient swamplands, and erosion by rain, wind and running water.
Even the lyrebird has played its part. While excavating for food or building nest mounds these birds turn over an average of 63 tonnes of debris per hectare every year. Wombat burrows also alter the soil profile.
Spectacular views of sandstone escarpments can be seen all along the Tablelands region. Its northern perimeter is in the Wollemi National Park and its southern tip can be seen at Kanangra Walls in the Kanangra-Boyd National Park.
The Wollemi National Park is formed mostly from Narrabeen and Hawkesbury sandstone laid down up to 250 million years ago. Over millions of years, the rivers and creeks have eroded the soft sandstone to form enormous valleys and sheer escarpments. Wollemi National Park is also home to the largest collection of slot canyons. Canyons run 30km east to west and 100km north to south. Slot canyons are narrow canyons in the sandstone. They are formed by water rushing through the rocks. The hard sandstone on top is resistant to effects of the water, whereas areas of softer shales and softer sandstone below erode faster, forming the canyons. These slot canyons range from 1m to 3m wide and are up to 30m deep. Some canyons are dry, while others have creeks running in them. Well prepared canyoners climb, abseil and swim through slot canyons.
The Blue Breaks, Kanangra-Boyd National Park
The Blue Breaks are deep within the Kanangra-Boyd Wilderness Area. As such they are accessible by experienced walkers only. There are walks into the Blue Breaks from Kanangra Walls and Yerranderie. The Axehead Range ridge walk is considered one of the most spectacular ridge walks in the state.
The Capertee Valley is accessible by car, and can be viewed from a number of look outs.
It is the second largest naturally eroded river valley in the world, after the Grand Canyon. In fact, though the Grand Canyon is deeper, Capertee Valley is both wider and longer than its American counterpart. Capertee Valley is as much as 30km wide, and is 1km longer than the Grand Canyon.
Under the Capertee sandstone canyon lie layers of coal and oil shale.
Pantoneys Crown is a flat topped mountain that towers up from within the Capertee Valley. It is named after William Pantoney, who in 1821 became one of the first Europeans in the area. The mountain rises 550m above the Capertee Valley to an altitude of 1020m.
There are great views of Pantoneys Crown from Pearsons lookout, on Mudgee Road. Walkers who climb to the summit of Pantoneys Crown have the most commanding view of all, a 360 degree view of Capertee Valley.
Wollemi National Park, Gardens of Stone National Park and Newnes State Forest are home to a series of mystical stone pagodas. The pagodas were formed from sandstone hardened by layers of ironstone, which is more resistant to erosion than the softer sandstone around it.
One of the finest collections of pagodas can be found in the Newnes State Forest. Looking like the ruins of an ancient settlement, it is the known as the Lost City. You can access the Lost City by 4WD or mountain bike from the Bells Line of Road. You can also see the pagodas at the Dunns Swamp picnic and camping ground, in Wollemi National Park.
Ancient volcanic activity has left its mark on the Tablelands region. Yerranderie is an extinct volcano, while Mount Tomah, Mount Wilson, Mount Banks and Mount Colong are mountains capped with a thin layer of volcanic basalt. An awe inspiring relic of ancient volcanic activity can be found at Evans Crown.
Located south-east of the village of Tarana, Evans Crown is an outcropping of granite along a high ridge-line. The granite has weathered into sphere-like formations known as tors. Its prominence in the landscape may have contributed to its high significance for the Wiradjuri people as a meeting place, initiation and ceremonial site. Granite quarried at Evans Crown can be found in the Commonwealth Bank building in Martin Place, Sydney. Evans granite is formed when magma that was cooled underground has been exposed though erosion.
Jenolan Caves
Jenolan Caves is one of Australia’s oldest tourist attractions, and remains one of its most cherished. At approximately 340 million years old, Jenolan is significantly older than any other open cave system in the world. It is regarded as Australia’s most outstanding cave system. There are 350 recorded entrances to the caves at Jenolan. It is believed that the complex is largely an interconnected system with different chambers, each one linked to another. Not all of the connections have been located, and caves and passageways continue to be discovered. 11 spectacular show caves, pure underground rivers and beautiful limestone formations give visitors a wonderful glimpse of this beautiful underground landscape.
Bungonia Caves
Bungonia State Conservation Area includes the spectacular limestone landscape of Bungonia Creek. The caves lie in steep cliffs and can be explored by well equipped and experienced cavers only. The Bungonia Caves are among the deepest in Australia.
Colong Caves
The Colong Caves lie within a magnificent outcrop of limestone on the Oberon Stock Route, on the road to Yerranderie. They were formed during the Silurian period. Environmentalists fought to protect the caves from mining in the 1960s. Today the caves are protected, and a permit to visit them is required by the National Parks and Wildlife Service.
Wombeyan Caves
The Wombeyan Caves date back from the Silurian period. An intrusion of igneous rock into the limestone, from which the caves are formed, metamorphosed into marble. This occurred in the late Devonian period (approximately 380 million years ago). This metamorphosis into marble is a significant difference from the better known Jenolan Caves. 400 cave entrances have been recorded at Wombeyan. The surrounding area is home to a 1.5km long limestone canyon. This canyon is actually a collapsed giant cave. It contains 8 spring water pools, one of which is 60m long and between 1m and 2.5m deep. In amongst the pools are big limestone boulders, which were formerly the roof of the cave. Local aborigines believed the caves were formed during a contest between a mythical being (part fish and part reptile) and a tiger cat.
Abercrombie Caves
The Abercrombie Caves are made of Silurian limestone. They are the most accessible of the caves. The complex includes the popular Bushrangers Cave where the “Ribbon Gang” was captured. Grove Creek runs through the caves to form a 70m high waterfall a few kilometres downstream.
Country roads are often narrow and winding.
Bends and curves are often dangerous due to a build up loose dirt and stones.
Be prepared for changing road conditions and surfaces in wet weather.
Always drive to the conditions, which is not necessarily the posted speed limit